This Leyte travel guide follows one long road with water at both ends. You fly into Tacloban, take in the San Juanico Bridge, stand where General Douglas MacArthur waded ashore in Palo, then follow the Maharlika Highway south to Liloan Port in Southern Leyte, where the ferries leave for Mindanao.
Along the way, you will find Baybay City’s Spanish-era church and Cebu ferries, Ormoc’s fast craft from Cebu, and the long footbridge of Tagbak Marine Park. Each stop below covers what to see, how to get there and what to check before you go, based on my own trips by plane, rental car, bus and boat.
Tacloban Airport: the front door to Leyte and Eastern Visayas
Most trips to Leyte start at Daniel Z. Romualdez Airport (IATA: TAC), better known as Tacloban Airport. It sits on the San Jose peninsula at the edge of the city and serves as the main air link from Manila and Cebu to the region, with airlines such as Cebu Pacific flying in, about 24 flights a day in 2024. In 2023 it handled about 1.5 million passengers, ranking it the seventh busiest airport in the Philippines.
The airport carries its own history. It began as a military airfield during World War II and was converted for commercial use after the war. In November 2013, Typhoon Yolanda (Haiyan) destroyed the terminal and control tower, and the rebuilt building reopened as a modest single-level terminal.
That terminal is now being replaced. A new passenger terminal building, built in phases, was targeted to open for domestic flights within 2026, with the longer goal of international flights by 2028. Before you fly, check with your airline which terminal is in use.
Getting there: the airport is a short ride from downtown Tacloban by jeepney (Downtown to San Jose to Airport route), taxi or hotel shuttle.
San Juanico Bridge: where Samar meets Leyte
Just north of Tacloban, the San Juanico Bridge crosses the narrow San Juanico Strait to join Leyte and Samar. At about 2.16 kilometers, it is the only permanent land link between the two islands and the longest bridge on the Pan-Philippine Highway. Built from 1969 and opened in 1973, its steel arch and long S-curve still make it the most photographed structure in the region.
The bridge has had a hard couple of years. In May 2025, a 3-ton load limit was imposed after engineers found structural problems, stopping trucks and buses from crossing. After repairs, it reopened to two-way traffic in December 2025 under a 15-ton limit, with full 33-ton capacity targeted for 2026. Cars and vans cross normally; if you are riding a bus from Samar, confirm the current crossing arrangement before you book.
For the view, cross by daylight and look out over the strait’s scattered green islets. The approach roads on both ends give the classic shot of the arch rising above the water.
MacArthur Landing Memorial, Palo, Leyte: where MacArthur returned
On 20 October 1944, General Douglas MacArthur waded ashore at Red Beach in Palo and kept his wartime promise to return to the Philippines. With him came President Sergio Osmeña and members of the Commonwealth government in exile, who restored civil government on Philippine soil. The landing opened the Battle of Leyte and the campaign that ended the Japanese occupation.
Today the spot is the MacArthur Leyte Landing Memorial National Park in Barangay Candahug, about 5 kilometers south of Tacloban. Its centerpiece is a group of seven bronze statues, larger than life, standing in a shallow pool as if still wading toward shore. Sculptor Anastacio Caedo modeled them on the famous photograph of the landing, and they were unveiled in 1981. Besides MacArthur and Osmeña, the group includes Carlos P. Romulo and MacArthur’s senior officers.
At the edge of the pool, twin markers from the National Historical Institute tell the story in English and Filipino, “Leyte Landing” and “Paglunsad sa Leyte.” They note that the site was declared a National Historical Landmark in 2004. The statues have weathered storms too: Typhoon Yolanda knocked one figure off its base in 2013, and it was restored soon after.
Come in the morning, when the light falls on the bronze and the Leyte Gulf is calm behind the figures. The park is busiest around the A-Day anniversary every 20 October.
Ormoc Port: the fast ferry from Cebu to Leyte
If you are coming from Cebu, Ormoc on Leyte’s west coast is the quickest way in by sea. Fast craft from OceanJet and SuperCat run several times a day between Cebu City’s Pier 1 and Ormoc, and the crossing takes about 3 hours. Slower roll-on/roll-off ferries also serve the route if you are bringing a vehicle.
As a guide, the SuperCat schedule board at the Ormoc office in July 2024 listed four trips each way between Ormoc and Cebu: 5:30 AM, 9:00 AM, 12:30 PM and 4:00 PM. The same board showed SuperCat’s Cebu to Tagbilaran runs, handy if you plan to continue to Bohol.
Ormoc connects to more than Cebu. Boats also run between Ormoc and Pilar on the Camotes Islands, and OceanJet links Cebu with other Leyte ports such as Palompon and Maasin. From Ormoc, vans and buses continue overland to Tacloban, Baybay and the rest of the island, so you can arrive by sea and leave by air, or the other way around.
Sea schedules shift with the season and the weather, and trips can be cancelled when storms pass through. Book ahead on busy dates and confirm departures with the operator.
Baybay City: heritage town and west coast port
Past the red “Leaving Tacloban City” arch, the island opens into rice fields, coconut groves and long stretches of coast. Baybay City, on Leyte’s western shore facing the Camotes Sea, is about 108 kilometers from Tacloban and an easy place to break the drive. Its name means “beach,” fitting for a city with the longest coastline in Leyte.
The heart of town is the Immaculate Conception Church, a Spanish-era stone church begun in 1852 and completed around 1870, with a squat bell tower of brick and coral stone. During World War II it served as a refuge for wounded soldiers. On the plaza nearby stands the big red “Baybay City” heart sign, the town’s favorite photo spot, with the mountains rising behind it.
From the church, walk A. Mabini Street, the city’s Heritage Lane of old ancestral houses. If you have more time, Baybay also offers the hilltop San Antonio de Padua Shrine, the 1634 St. Isidore the Laborer Chapel in Punta, and beaches and waterfalls around Mt. Pangasugan. The town celebrates its patroness every December with the Binaybayon Festival.
Baybay is also one of Leyte’s sea gateways. Its port links the island’s west coast with Cebu City, with roll-on/roll-off ferries from operators such as Roble Shipping, Lapulapu Shipping Lines and Star Philippines Shipping Lines. The crossing takes roughly 5 to 6 hours, making Baybay a handy entry or exit point if you are combining Leyte with Cebu. Schedules change, so check with the operator before you travel. Even if you are not sailing, the seawall promenade is worth a stop: stone benches look out over the bay to the long pier where the ferries dock, with green hills behind.
Liloan Port, Southern Leyte: the ferry gateway to Mindanao
At the southern tip of the Maharlika Highway, Liloan sits on Panaon Island, linked to mainland Leyte by the short Wawa Bridge. Its name comes from the Cebuano word lilo, meaning whirlpool, after the strong currents in the channel below. For road travelers, this is where Leyte ends and the sea crossing to Mindanao begins.
Coming from the north, make one more stop just before the Liloan bridge. Tagbak Marine Park, in Barangay Tabugon, has a very long footbridge with bright green railings that stretches out over clear turquoise water to a diving hut. It is a spot for swimming and snorkeling, with a forested hill rising beside the walkway. From the far end of the footbridge, you can already see Liloan Port across the water.
The Liloan Ferry Terminal is a roll-on/roll-off port on the Pan-Philippine Highway, so buses, trucks and private cars drive straight onto the ferries. Boats cross to Surigao on Mindanao’s northern tip, with operators such as FastCat, Santa Clara Shipping and Starlite Ferries serving the route. Depending on the vessel and the Surigao port used (Lipata or the Surigao City base port), the crossing takes roughly 2 to 4 hours. Schedules and fares change often, so confirm with the operator before you go.
The port is small and easy to navigate. Motorcycles and tricycles drop passengers at the gate, and a few food stalls and a coffee kiosk keep waiting travelers going. At dusk, the hills across the channel turn blue and the terminal lights come on.
If you arrive early or stay the night, walk over to the Liloan Baywalk. Its arched gateway leads to a seaside promenade lined with small eateries, a favorite evening hangout for locals. Along the waterfront, rows of white outrigger fishing boats rest at anchor in front of the town, one of the prettiest scenes in Southern Leyte at blue hour.
Three ways I made the trip
By plane and rental car. I flew into Tacloban, then rented a car and drove south to Southern Leyte. This is the easier way to see everything in this article. You set your own pace, stop at Palo, Baybay and Tagbak whenever you like, and reach Liloan in about 3 hours of driving if you go straight through.
By bus from Davao City. On another trip, I rode a bus from Davao City all the way to Liloan. Buses on this route roll onto the RoRo ferry at Surigao and cross to Liloan, so there is no need to change buses. The ferry ride was the brutal part, not because of the sea but because of the waiting at the port before boarding. If you take this route, bring water, snacks and patience, and expect the crossing to add hours beyond the sailing time itself.
By SuperCat from Cebu. I have also crossed from Cebu to Leyte on the SuperCat fast craft, landing in Ormoc. It is the quickest sea route into the island, about 3 hours, with several trips a day. From Ormoc, you can continue by van or bus to Tacloban, Baybay or farther south.
Quick travel notes
| Stop | Where | Good to know |
|---|---|---|
| Tacloban Airport (TAC) | San Jose, Tacloban City | Flights from Manila and Cebu; new terminal targeted for 2026, so check which building is in use |
| San Juanico Bridge | Tacloban City to Santa Rita, Samar | 15-ton limit since Dec 2025, full capacity targeted for 2026; best seen by daylight |
| Leyte Landing Memorial | Red Beach, Candahug, Palo | About 5 km south of Tacloban; busiest on 20 October |
| Ormoc Port | Ormoc City, west coast of Leyte | Fast craft to and from Cebu City, about 3 hours; boats to Camotes; vans and buses onward to Tacloban |
| Baybay City | West coast of Leyte | About 108 km from Tacloban; church, heart sign and Heritage Lane within walking distance; ferries to and from Cebu City, about 5 to 6 hours |
| Liloan Ferry Terminal | Panaon Island, Southern Leyte | RoRo ferries to Surigao, about 2 to 4 hours; confirm schedules with the operator |
From Tacloban, the Leyte Landing Memorial is a quick side trip on the way south. By car, Tacloban to Liloan is about 155 km and roughly 3 hours of driving on Google Maps, before stops. Add time for photo stops, lunch and any detour to Baybay’s town center.
Leyte travel FAQ
How do I get to Leyte?
Fly into Tacloban from Manila or Cebu, take a fast craft from Cebu to Ormoc (about 3 hours), sail from Cebu to Baybay (about 5 to 6 hours), or come overland from Mindanao by bus via the Surigao to Liloan ferry.
How far is Tacloban from Liloan Port?
About 155 km, or roughly 3 hours by car before stops.
Where did MacArthur land in Leyte?
At Red Beach in Barangay Candahug, Palo, about 5 km south of Tacloban, on 20 October 1944. The MacArthur Leyte Landing Memorial now marks the spot.
Where do ferries from Liloan Port go?
To Surigao on Mindanao, through Lipata or the Surigao City port. The crossing takes about 2 to 4 hours, plus waiting time at the port.
Can you drive across the San Juanico Bridge?
Yes. Cars cross normally. The bridge reopened to two-way traffic in December 2025 under a 15-ton limit while repairs continue, so heavy vehicles should check current rules.
Sources
- Daniel Z. Romualdez Airport, Wikipedia
- New Tacloban Airport terminal up for opening in 2026, PNA
- San Juanico Bridge reopens for two-way traffic, PTV News
- 33-ton load capacity eyed in San Juanico Bridge upgrade, Manila Bulletin
- MacArthur Landing Memorial National Park, Wikipedia
- Leyte Landing Memorial, History Hit
- Baybay Heritage Lane, Baybay City Government
- Baybay tourist destinations, Baybay City Government
- Liloan, Southern Leyte, Wikipedia
- FastCat Surigao to Liloan schedule, Buses and Ferries
- Cebu to Baybay ferry schedules and operators, Pamasahe
- Cebu to Baybay, Lapulapu Shipping Lines, Pamasahe
- Tagbak Marine Park, Mappins PH
- Cebu to Ormoc, OceanJet, Pamasahe
- SuperCat Cebu to Ormoc fast craft, Bohol Philippines
- Ormoc to Pilar, Camotes, Pamasahe
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